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Showing posts from September, 2023

Bottom Of The Barrel

We had a pretty good run yesterday at 176nm in 24 hours, but unfortunately not in the right direction due to the wind angle.  This afternoon, however, the wind eased off until it was blowing directly from behind at about 10 knots, and it was just not enough to make steady progress. We decided to drop the sails and start the engine, as we did not want to waste any more time. We had a taste of what's to come across the Malacca Strait when we passed Jakarta with a fair few ships all heading in and out. We had to keep a close watch on the radar and the AIS, and avoid any potential collisions. It was quite a busy and stressful passage, but we managed to get through it safely.  Currently, we are making miles in exactly the right direction thanks to the trusty Yanmar pushing us along. We are gradually knocking the miles off and in a few days it's going to be only a few days until we get to Sabang. And then it's only a few days more to Phuket. 

Another Night

It's been another challenging night on board as we make our way to Phuket. The wind has been playing tricks on us, changing direction and speed without warning. Sometimes it dies off completely, leaving us with a sluggish sail and a quiet engine. Other times it picks up suddenly, filling the sails with a gust and pushing us along at a brisk pace. We are currently sailing at 7 knots with a little over 15 knots of wind over the quarter. That's not bad for this time of the year, when the monsoon season is starting to kick in. But for now, we have to head a little further west than I would like, to keep the apparent wind up and avoid banging sails. The sea state is moderate, with some swell and chop. Nothing too uncomfortable, but enough to keep us alert and on our toes. The boat is handling well, with a balanced helm and a steady course. The autopilot is doing most of the work, but we check it regularly and make minor adjustments as needed. The night sky is clear, with a bright mo...

A Distant Glow

We had a record night last night, getting AIS signals from vessels that were as much as 115 nm away. That's a lot farther than the typical range of 15-20 nm for an AIS-receiver. It must be due to some atmospheric phenomenon.  As we sail along the coast of Java, we can see the distant glow of fishing boats off to our starboard side. They are everywhere, like a swarm of fireflies on the horizon. I can't quite make out the individual lights, but we sailed past them all night, so I'm going to say there were at least 200. It's sad to think that they are fishing with no regulations or restrictions, depleting the marine life and harming the ecosystem. 6500 nm seemed an almost impossible distance to sail when we left NZ, but now we have only 1500 nm left as we keep chipping away at the miles. I'm guessing we'll reach Sabang in 9 days, clear out in 2 days, and then head to Phuket in another 2 days. That's exciting.  The wind has been up and down for the last 24 hours...

Day?

I think this is the fourth day since we left Marina del Rey. The days tied to the dock and sleeping all night seem like a hazy dream. Now, we are fully immersed in the rhythm of the sea and the sky, sailing towards our next destination: Sabang. The wind picked up at sunset to a very appreciated 16 - 21 knots and I guess you can see the bump in the boat speed - the extra couple of knots of breeze makes a huge difference. We are making good progress, averaging about 7 knots over the ground. The boat is handling well, with a reefed main and a full genoa. The autopilot is doing the steering, and we take turns to keep an eye on the instruments and the horizon. We have around 1200 nautical miles until we get to Sabang, which is located on the northern tip of Sumatra. It is one of the main ports of entry for Indonesia, or in our case exit, and a popular stopover for yachts cruising in Southeast Asia.  We have settled into our watch system of 3 hours on and 3 hours off, with some flexibili...

Chippin' Away

It's been a calm 24 hours on the high seas. We've managed to do a bit of sailing despite the light and at times no wind. The moon is gradually illuminating our path like a silver highway.  The fishing boat scenario has taken a turn for the better as we are now farther offshore. I suspect the commercial shipping is also hugging the coast to save time. An interesting phenomenon we've observed is the reception of AIS signals from over 90 nautical miles away. This is quite unusual and likely due to atmospheric conditions causing signal reflections. We even received a return signal from the other side of an island, defying the typical line-of-sight range. Apart from these intriguing developments, life on board has been relatively quiet. However, I've established a bread making department in the cockpit, and I must say, the results have been nothing short of spectacular! The tantalizing aroma of freshly baked bread wafts through the air, ensuring Rhona is up on time for her w...

Hasta la vista Jumbo!

Marina Del Ray was actually named after a guy called Ray who is the owner. Yes, that's right, it's literally Marina of Ray. How hilarious is that? Anyway, we had a nice time there catching up on some sleep. You know how it is when you sail for a long time, you get used to the watch cycles and you wake up every few hours. It was great to have a few uninterrupted night's but after sailing for long the watch cycles have become a habit so we'd still wake up occasionally. We also managed to get some projects done on the boat, like fixing the rudder that was giving us some trouble. I came up with a very high tech solution involving 2 blocks of wood. Don't worry, it's totally safe and reliable. Trust me, I'm a professional. Besides the rudder, we also worked on some other things, like changing the oil in the engines, changing the filters, checking the rigging, and topping up the water tanks. Nothing too exciting, but necessary to keep the boat in good shape. Like w...

Leaving Tomorrow Morning. Again.

I'm happy to report that we've had a reasonably relaxing time at Marina del Ray in Lombok, where we've been resting and getting ready for the next leg of our yacht delivery to Thailand. We've changed the engine oil, filters, topped up with diesel and water, and enjoyed some well-deserved sleep. The marina staff have been very friendly and helpful, and the scenery is stunning. We're about to set sail for Sabang and will leave first thing tomorrow morning. Sabang is about 1800nm away. We're hoping for a smooth and uneventful journey, with less or no fishing boats to dodge. They can be quite a nuisance, especially at night, when they don't always show their lights. I've decided to try heading further offshore, where there might be less traffic. If that doesn't work, we might have to stop for a night or two somewhere along the way. I'll keep you posted on our progress and any interesting sights we see. We should have fair winds and following seas! ...

Mystery At Sea

We are now looking forward to reaching our destination which is in sight. We expect to arrive at the west tip of Lombok around 9 am, and then it's just a few hours further to a secure mooring. We can't wait to get some rest and relaxation after this trip. The wind has been light and variable for the last few days, which means sailing was slow and frustrating so we've done a fair bit of motoring. One of the most curious things we have encountered is the mysterious appearance and disappearance of fishing boats in this area. Yesterday, during the day, we sailed for hours without seeing a single vessel on the horizon. We thought we had the sea to ourselves, enjoying the calm and quiet. But as soon as the sun set, things changed dramatically. Within minutes, we spotted seven fishing boats around us, all with bright lights and presumably nets or lines. We wondered where they came from and what they were doing. We tried to keep a safe distance from them, but they seemed to multipl...

Obstacles

We are sailing towards Lombok , the next stop on our yacht delivery adventure. We have been on the water for a few days now and we have encountered a sea full of fishing boats. It was like a floating city, with what looked like hundreds of vessels of all shapes and sizes and of course it was nighttime. I'm not sure what the collective noun for fishing boats is, but I suspect I can't write it here without offending someone. Let's just say it was a very crowded scene. The funny thing is, you only see fishing boats at nighttime with all their lights on fishing. You never see them in the daytime or driving to or from the fishing ground. It's like birds - you only ever see fully grown ones, you never see young birds. Maybe they have some secret hiding place. Another thing that caught our attention was the huge FADs that dotted the sea. FADs are man-made structures that attract fish, but they can also be a nautical nightmare. They don't show up on radar until you are abou...

Leaving Kupang

A few days ago we arrived in Kupang, Indonesia, where we cleared in to Indonesia and planned to stop for a night or two to rest. Kupang is a bustling city on the island of Timor, and a popular destination for sailors crossing from Australia to Asia. But what I thought was going to be a peaceful nights rest or 2 in Kupang was exhausting. I quickly realized that Kupang was not a place for relaxation. We decided leave as soon as possible. I had enough of Kupang and we wanted to get back on the water and continue our journey. The next morning, I went to do my routine deck walk to inspect all the sails, lines, blocks, pins, clips and look for anything else out of place. Everything looked good. The yacht was ready to sail again. We weighed anchor and set sail for Marina Del Ray where we could fill up with water and fuel before heading to Sabang on the last long leg of the trip before hopping over to Phuket, Thailand. Sabang is about 450 nautical miles away, which will take about three and a...

Nearly In Kupang

We will be at the end of the island in a few hours. And then we go through the Roti Strait and turn right into Semau Strait, around the corner and into Kupang. I want to time it so we arrive too late to clear in, which means we can have a night's rest before dealing with the bureaucracy. It's been really calm and we were motoring since yesterday. 

Close To Indonesia

We are beginning to encounter Asian fishing boats as we approach Indonesia. These boats are usually small, wooden, and poorly lit, making them hard to spot on the radar or even with the naked eye. They often fish at night, using bright lights to attract their catch, but sometimes they don't turn them on until they are very close to us. This can be quite nerve-wracking, especially when we are sailing in almost completely flat calm conditions, like we are right now. Another thing that I find exciting about this delivery is the opportunity to see some gas platforms that are marked on the chart. These are huge structures that extract natural gas from the seabed, and they look like mini-cities floating on the water. They have lights, cranes, and helipads. I am looking forward to passing by some of these gas platforms soon, as they are located in the Timor Sea, between Australia and Indonesia.  The wind has been very light for the past day, barely reaching half a knot at times. This mea...

Zig Zag Venus

Today was a slow day, as we had to sail in zig zags. You see, heading directly to our destination would have the wind at 180 degrees, which is inefficient and dangerous. That's when the wind is blowing straight from behind, and the sail can flop from one side to the other without warning. This is called an accidental gybe, and it can damage the rigging or injure someone.  So, we kept the wind at 150 degrees, which means the apparent wind is higher and there is less chance of an accidental gybe. The apparent wind is the wind that we feel on board, which is a combination of the true wind and the boat speed. The faster we go, the more wind we create, and the more power we get from the sail. Unfortunately, this also means that we are not sailing in a straight line to our destination, but rather in a zig zag pattern.  It's almost flat calm now, and we have been motoring for the last few hours. The engine is humming along, and we are hoping for some breeze to fill our sails again. T...

Trade Winds Continued

Sailing in the trade winds is a dream come true for sailors. These are the steady winds that blow from east to west near the equator, creating ideal sailing conditions for trade ships for centuries. But for a sailor who promised to write daily updates for this blog, trade winds are not a subject matter that has much variation. The days are mostly the same, with nothing but blue sky and water in sight. It's probably a better experience for Rhona as she's lucky enough to have me all to herself. The only excitement we had yesterday was when the wind shifted twice, forcing us to gybe and change course. And last night, we had to turn on the engine for a few hours as the wind died down completely. I hope you don't mind these reports, but that's the reality of sailing in the trade winds. Maybe tomorrow will bring something more adventurous. Or maybe not. I actually prefer it when it's not exciting, because excitement usually means something is going wrong or about to go wr...

Trade Winds

I was surprised to discover that it's Sunday today. The days seem to merge together when you're out at sea, with nothing but the steady trade winds pushing you along.  The constant motion of the boat and the sound of the wind in the sails and the waves becomes a soothing rhythm. It's easy to lose track of the days when you're surrounded by nothing but the sea. But that's part of the charm of being out here, living in the moment.  The wind is blowing constantly at 15 - 20 knots, and we are clocking off 150 - 170nm days. This is what catamarans are made for: gliding over the waves with minimal heeling and maximum comfort. The wind is at a great angle, and we can sail with our 'pre reefed' main and a genoa. The reason I keep referring to the main as 'pre reefed' is because it's a delivery sail that's a little bit too small.  The chart plotter constantly displays plenty of information including how miles  to the destination and the time to go, a...

Writers Block

Today was a great day for sailing. We had lighter winds in the morning, and we were cruising along at a steady 5 knots. The boat was handling well.  Around noon, the wind picked up a few knots. The extra apparent wind made such a difference, and we've been doing 7s since then. It makes the boat come alive.  We have been sailing with the saloon doors open, so we can hear the sound of water rushing past the hull. It is a soothing and constant noise, like a river flowing. Every now and then, we hear the wake and waves breaking behind the boat, as if we are leaving a trail of bubbles.  One of the things I love about sailing is the *ahem* harmony between the boat and the elements. Sometimes, everything is in tune, and the boat becomes an orchestra. If the boat makes a big movement, we hear a symphony of sounds: the cutlery in the drawers, the batteries in the cupboard, the tools, the loose cups, all move in unison with a 'clunk'. It is like music to my ears. The sound of the ...

Gulf of Carpentaria

We are going well as we cross above the Gulf of Carpentaria and today marks a month since we left Marsden Cove and we approach the half-way point of our trip. We have sailed around 3000 nautical miles from NZ so far. The total passage is approximately 6000nm - That's around a quarter of the way around the world! We are hoping to maintain our current pace and reach our destination in a few more weeks.  Currently we have 11 to 15 knots of breeze on the beam, which is enough to push us along at over 6 knots, which is a good speed. We are hoping to maintain these conditions for the majority of the trip, other than potentially a few days of motoring around the equator. Harmony is performing well even with the 'pre-reefed' main sail that we have set up and is comfortable.  With 2 people onboard we do watches of 3hrs off and 3hrs on, which takes a bit of getting used to. Sure, it's nice to sleep longer, but we feel 4 hours is too long to be on watch. We prefer to have shorter...

Torres Part 2

I’m happy to report that we have finally made it through the Torres Strait, It was not an easy feat, but we managed to do it with some luck and skill!  The last section of the strait is extremely narrow and shallow, with many reefs and islands to avoid. I had been concerned about getting through in daylight, as the visibility is crucial for spotting the hazards. I had considered anchoring for the night, but eventually decided to push on and we made it into clear water before sunset, leaving just a couple of shoals to navigate through into open water. Generally, I would be very cautious of a 9-meter patch, but when the rest of the depth is 13 meters, it doesn’t seem too bad. Of course, the strait is not the only danger we faced on this voyage. Since I have so far been attacked by birds and several vicious flying fish, I am very cautious of what nature can throw at you. After reading today a catamaran that was sailing from Vanuatu to Australia sank after being attacked by sharks I h...

Torres Part 1

We had a nice second day with reasonable wind and we made good miles as we approached the Torres Strait , the narrow passage between Australia and Papua New Guinea that connects the Coral Sea and the Arafura Sea. This is one of the most challenging and exciting parts of our trip, as we have to navigate through a complex maze of reefs, islands, sandbanks, and shipping lanes. We also saw more dolphins at once than I've seen for a long time and interestingly there were two different types of dolphins swimming together. This is the point my marine biology skills breakdown but there were some very large ones and dozens of smaller ones. I think the large ones were bottlenose dolphins, which are very common in this area. They are friendly and curious animals that often come close to boats and play in the bow waves. No idea what the small ones where other than that they weren't spinner dolphins.  We dodged a few ships and entered the Torres Strait just about sunset and hav...

Heading to Torres Strait

It's your favorite yacht delivery skipper here, back with another adventure on the high seas. This time, we set sail from Port Moresby, but not without a few hiccups along the way. Our plan had been to arrive on Thursday, get settled into our marina berth, do some maintenance on Friday, rest on Saturday, and then head to the fuel dock and back to our berth on Sunday. We were all set to leave bright and early Monday morning and arrive at the entrance to the Torres Strait late afternoon Tuesday. But as they say, the best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry. Customs took much longer than expected, so we ended up leaving Port Moresby much later than planned. And now we were behind schedule before we even left. The Torres Strait is no joke - 150nm of congested shipping lanes, reefs, current, tides and strong wind. The first 40nm seems straightforward so I planned to do that at night and arriving at a busy area in the morning so we can navigate through in day time. And...