Yacht Delivery Blog

We are done! The boat's tied up safe and sound in the marina, the crew has packed their bags and headed off, and I'm here doing the final clean-up before I leave at 6 am tomorrow morning. I have to admit, I was pretty anxious for the last 24 hours. I was on the edge of my seat, hoping those saildrives would hold out for the final stretch. I even changed the oil in both of them around 3 am, because we were going to make landfall around 5 am and its quite a way up the river, and the tide was going to be dropping as we went up, meaning they'd have a bit more work to do. And the final approach was definitely… engaging. There was a fair bit of tide coming out of the river, which dropped our boat speed down to around 4 knots. We also had the added obstacle of river traffic to contend with, and the channel margins were tight – about half a meter on either side. It was one of those situations where you're constantly running through scenarios in your head. I was thinking things ...

The wind decided to take a break overnight, and we're now down to around 5 knots of breeze from the east with the main and headsail being stowed around midnight. So, we're gently motoring along on one engine, just cruising towards the finish line. Today's agenda includes an oil change on the gearboxes. I want to get that done in preparation for the final push tomorrow when we'll be heading up the Brisbane River . It's always good to have everything fresh and ready for those final maneuvers. I also took another look at the port saildrive this morning, after we'd been motoring all night. And it's not as bad as I feared! There doesn't seem to be a ton of water in there. The oil is definitely milky, which isn't ideal, but it still appears to be providing lubrication. And since I'm only motoring at around 1500 RPM, I'm feeling cautiously optimistic that we'll make it in without any horrible noises emanating from the engine room or, even worse...

Well, I had thought the chances of headwinds were diminishing, but it appears they actually minished (a nautical term, I'm sure). The breeze has kicked up quite a bit and is in the high 20s at the moment. The good news is that we can lay Brisbane at about 50 degrees off the wind, so at least we can still make progress and don't have to tack. I had been hoping to have a little bit more east in the breeze but it is what it is. The main has two reefs in (and the second reef is very deep!), and we've got several turns in the headsail. Every now and then, a huge wave explodes over the boat, just to keep us on our toes. Unfortunately, the inevitable has happened. I had my suspicions the day before yesterday, but it was definitely confirmed yesterday: the port saildrive now has sea water in the oil as well. It's absolutely no surprise, really, but I had been hoping it would hold out a little longer. So, we'll have to be managing the engines very carefully, as it looks lik...

Oxygen is all tied up in the marina in Sorong after the delivery from Fiji. This was certainly an unusual passage! We left Fiji expecting those gentle trade winds that usually sweep across the Pacific, but instead, we were greeted with 30+ knots and rain or nearly flat calm. The normal strong winds of the Coral Sea vanished, replaced by an eerie stillness, and even the typically turbulent Torres Strait was surprisingly calm. These delays, caused by both excessive and insufficient wind, meant we faced headwinds for the next 1000 nautical miles after leaving Thursday Island behind. We could have managed this IF (and it's a big IF) we hadn't encountered a vicious counter-current that seemed determined to push us backwards, sideways or both. As if things weren't complicated enough, we had a problem with the genset (remember, we have electric motors, so the genset is crucial!). AND THEN, just to add insult to injury, the support for the mainsheet track started giving us troubl...

The last few days have been quite the adventure, in fact its been pretty hectic! We've been battling torrential rain and squalls, along with one of my biggest annoyances – unlit fishing boats at night. I'm not sure if it's a blessing or a curse that they're big enough to show up on radar. On the one hand, at least we can see them, but on the other hand, hitting one would definitely ruin our day, where as a small one would just bounce off. This is an island 1/3rd of a mile away. 

Well, we're on the move again after a brief but necessary stop to fix the generator. We weren't supposed to stop anywhere before reaching the clearance port and checking in with the authorities, but we got special permission to drop anchor as long as we stayed on the boat. Not that we were tempted to go ashore – we were too busy with repairs, and honestly, one island starts to look much like another after a while! The repair job was a bit of a "make-do" situation with the limited supplies we have onboard. I think I did a decent job considering what I had to work with, but fingers crossed it holds up! We ran some tests last night, and things were looking okay after a bit of fine-tuning once the generator cooled down. Our current plan is to clear into Tual. A quick Google Maps search shows several hardware stores and what look like some engineering workshops. Depending on how our recent patch job is holding up, I have a few ideas for improving it. It's a tricky ...

We're still pushing onward, though not quite as fast or in the exact direction we'd like. But hey, that's all part of the adventure, right? I was hoping the wind would shift as predicted in the GFS forecast, but unfortunately, the opposite happened – the forecast changed to match our current conditions! The biggest hurdle at the moment is the current. We're battling a 1.5 knot current pushing us east as we try to maintain a course of around 330 degrees, around 43 degrees off the apparent wind. Despite this, we're still managing to tick off some miles towards our destination and keeping a positive outlook. This is what adventure is all about – pushing through discomfort and frustration. Adventure isn't sipping mai tais by the pool; it's about persevering and doing your best in challenging conditions. When I think about the incredible feats of past adventurers like Bligh's 3500nm open boat journey or Scott's expeditions to the South Pole, it puts...

We finally popped out of the end of the Torres Strait! I'm so pleased to have that part of the trip over – it feels like a huge milestone is behind us. For the last week, the weather models have been showing we'll get wind "in 2 days," but then the next day the wind is still 2 days away. So I was very encouraged as we stuck our nose into the Arafura Sea and felt a tickle on my face. We got the mainsail up, and the tickle remained, but not from the same direction! We've been chasing the breeze around ever since. We also had a lot of squalls blowing through last night, which kept us on our toes. The wind would shift and increase, then fade away, before increasing and shifting again. A bit of a wild ride! It appears that the sunrise is bringing light headwinds, which I'm not going to complain about at this stage. The big plus is that we're able to head directly where we want to go. And the bigger plus is we aren't burning any of our precious diesel.

Well, yesterday didn't quite go as planned! We lost the wind early in the morning and ended up fighting a bit of tide, which meant we arrived a little later than expected. We dropped anchor around 3:30 PM and were told the boarding officers had been notified. At about this point, I started glancing at my watch and wondering what the chances were of actually getting cleared in late on a Sunday afternoon. Turns out, the chances were zero. Around 17.00 they told us they'd come first thing in the morning (i.e., in a few hours). So, we had a choice to make: leave and go back out to sea for the night, then return in the morning (far safer, but a bit of a hassle), or stay put. The yacht club assured us it was safe to anchor outside the marina and that they have security monitoring the seawall. Which, of course, made me wonder why they have security if it's so safe, and what exactly a security guard on the seawall is going to do if something happens!  Anyway, since we were alread...

You know how there's always one person in every organization who really makes things happen? Well, at the Royal Papua Yacht Club, that person is Josephine! We were having a bit of trouble getting clearance to enter the country – our messages and calls to the authorities were going unanswered. Thankfully, we have Starlink! We called Josephine with Skype, and she managed to get in touch with someone and arrange for them to be standing by for our arrival today. Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly, but I have a good feeling about it thanks to Josephine! Yesterday's sailing was great. The breeze was pretty steady, and we seemed to be making good time. I'm not entirely sure how accurate our tracker is (it's sitting inside the boat), but we seemed to be averaging around 8 knots. One thing that's surprised me is how little activity we've seen along the coast. Port Moresby has a population of almost half a million, but approaching the city, there's barely a light to...

Well, we're still out here, braving what little elements there are to brave! The conditions have been pretty consistent over the past few days, and I keep waiting for a change. Yesterday, was very exciting as the breeze shifted to the north and picking up a bit. "Sails up and away we go!" I thought. That plan went well for a while and of course, I immediately fell into my usual trap of calculating our speed, distance to our destination, and estimated arrival time. You know the drill: "If we're going X knots, that's XX nautical miles a day, and it's XXXnm to our destination, which means we'll be there in XX days!" But, wouldn't you know it, I had barely finished my mental calculations before the wind decided to play tricks on us again, shifting back to the east. This is a very slight exaggeration - I did have time to take a photo. So, to keep the apparent wind up, we had to start heading north, which, as you seasoned blog readers know, mean...

Well, it seems the wind gods are still having a good chuckle at our expense. No significant change in the wind to report, I'm afraid. It's still hovering around 10 knots and stubbornly parked right behind us. We did have a few moments of excitement yesterday when it decided to liven things up a bit. It picked up (and by "picked up," I mean it reached a dizzying 14 knots!) and shifted to the north - so from the side, giving us a nice little push in the right direction for about an hour. But, it was just a tease, and then it was back to the same old story. Last night, we almost had an "all hands on deck" situation. The wind seemed to be picking up, and we were ready to hoist the mainsail and make the most of it. But just as we were about to spring into action, the rain started, and the wind promptly died off completely.  So, yeah, not exactly the most thrilling blog update, or the recipe for a fast passage as I had planned. But hey, we're still moving ...

Alright, crew, the last 24 hours have been a bit of a pain! We've had light and fickle winds, ranging from a gentle 8 knots to a slightly more respectable 14. But the real kicker? Those wild shifts in direction!  It's enough to make you want to tear your hair out. In these conditions, one of the things we keep a close eye on is our VMG, or Velocity Made Good. Basically, it tells us how fast we're actually moving towards our destination. Now, here's the thing: even if we're not pointing exactly in the right direction, we can still be making progress. But as we stray further off course, that VMG starts to drop. And if we were to keep turning away from our destination? Well, let's just say our VMG would hit zero and then start going negative. Yikes! I'm not entirely convinced the tracker you can see tells the whole story, though. It only updates hourly, so it misses some of the, shall we say, "creative" arcs we've been making. Typically, we g...

This is our last full day and night at sea. Tomorrow, we'll be tied up in the marina in Tahiti , and I'll be turning off the engines for the last time. The main and headsail will be dropped and stowed away, and I won't be touching the sheets or halyards again. It feels peculiar to think that Namarie and I have kept each other safe throughout this incredible journey, and in a few days, I'll be on a plane heading home. On this yacht delivery Namarie and I started in the Bay of Biscay and headed south into the Atlantic, getting to know each other along the way. We made a brief stop in the Canary Islands, our last contact with Europe before heading further south and leaving footprints in the red dust of Cape Verde. We left West Africa behind and headed further west across the Atlantic, dodging hurricanes and grabbing fuel and provisions in the southern end of the Caribbean. From there, we pushed onwards through the Caribbean Sea to Panama and the canal. Pretty soon after, ...

We saw land yesterday, which was extremely exciting. Another positive was that the land was exactly where it was supposed to be, which, of course, is a huge relief as it means everything is going according to plan. We are currently passing the next-to-last atoll and then have a small group of atolls to navigate between, namely Hikueru and Marokau, before heading south of Reitoru. This shouldn't be too challenging as the space between Hikueru and its neighbor is 15 nautical miles. But 15nm is only 7nm each side and if we are sailing at 7knts thats only an hour. During the night, the wind started to shift to the east. This meant we had to either head slightly south to keep the headsail full or drop the main. Since we were planning to go north of Amanu, heading further south wasn't an option. Therefore, we are sailing with just the headsail and still making good time. The sea remains quite choppy, and the sky is squally with patches of blue. Fingers crossed, the blue wins the batt...

The swell and breeze have died down slightly, and we're now experiencing fairly consistent mid-to-high 20 knots over the deck. We were well on our way to the elusive 200-nautical mile a day run, having covered 50 nautical miles in 6 hours, but victory seems to have slipped through our fingers. We've only managed 96 nautical miles in 12 hours, and our average speed has dropped to a disappointing 7.6 knots. We're approaching the first atolls in the Tuamotus, and it's a toss-up at the moment whether we'll be able to see them. These atolls are incredibly low-lying, only a couple of feet above the water, with palm trees on top. I'd be happy to make a slight detour to sail past and take a look, but that decision will depend on the wind. I don't want to deviate from the wind by more than 120 degrees apparent. We still have 300 nautical miles to go to clear the Tuamotus, and then it's a straight run to Tahiti. Unfortunately, the forecast suggests we might be fla...

As we make our way across the Pacific, it's hard not to reflect on the unpredictable nature of this journey. Last night we saw our first boat in weeks, and it came extremely  close, forcing us to change course by 30 degrees, and then its long line was almost directly across our path so we had to avoid that. Luckily the long line had a flashing LED on the end. With challenging weather ahead and a chain of atolls and reefs to navigate, I've decided to head slightly south to improve our position for the final leg of this 10,000-nautical mile trip. The southern end of the Tuamotus is a bit more spread out, and sailing slightly south will allow us to keep the wind further aft, giving us more options for our route as we bear away in a day or so when the forecast is showing a bit of a blow. While the electronics on board modern boats are fantastic and make my job much easier, they can also create a dangerous situation if something goes wrong. Not long ago, we relied on timing all arri...

I've realized that the focus of the blog has been slowly shifting towards flying fish and clouds, and even the clouds have started to take a backseat. so I decided to refocus the blog back on sailing and crossing the Pacific. Until last night, when I came off watch and went into my cabin, I didn't realize how much of my day had been consumed by flying fish (or avoiding them). I immediately knew something was amiss when I detected the telltale perfume of my scaly little flapping friend. There was a flying fish asleep on my bed! I poked it with the BBQ tongs, but it wouldn't wake up, so I picked it up by its wing and threw it off the back of the boat. Now, my whole cabin and bedding stink of flying fish, and our laundry facilities are slightly primitive, so I've had to soak all the bedding in a bucket of soapy water all night. I've spent the morning washing the smell out of my sheets. I'm aware the blog has not done a great job of shifting away from flying fish to...

Yesterday my request for the wind to ease off wasn't specific enough. It died down pretty much immediately and it was supposed to be after midday, which was disappointing. As a result, our 24-hour run was only 186 nautical miles, which is still impressive but not quite the 200 nautical miles I was dreaming of. We ended up motoring for the night with less than 10 knots of breeze, except for a brief burst of excitement this morning when the wind picked up to over 30 knots for a while. It's back to less than 10 knots now. We'll need to put the clocks back another hour as the sun didn't rise this morning until 7 AM. The day is pretty dreary so far, with a gray sky and drizzle. Hopefully, it will clear up soon. I'm also hoping the sea state will allow me to take the lid off the water barrels and pump fuel into the tanks this morning without spilling any. We also had a very exciting encounter yesterday: we spotted a ship, not with our eyes but on the AIS! It's the fir...

Yesterday began as usual, completely overcast with 10-12 knots of breeze. Around late morning, it started to sprinkle with rain, and the clouds turned even darker. Then, suddenly, the wind picked up to 15-18 knots from the southeast, the clouds dissipated, and we were racing along under a stunning blue sky. We had a fantastic sunset with Venus twinkling in the west, which made the terrible weather we have had since Panama seem even worse. It was incredible to have a clear sky at night with stars. This is it! We're definitely in the trade winds now, and this weather is going to stay for the rest of the trip. You can see where this is going, can't you? I woke up this morning to a completely overcast sky, less than 10 knots of wind, and we're motor sailing. The one good thing is that we ran the water maker all night and filled the tanks to the top, which is one less thing to worry about. I discovered my vertical jump from rest is quite impressive this morning when I leapt to a...