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Slow With Headwinds

 At the moment we are motoring directly into a light headwind that is blowing directly from Fiji. It's only around 6 knots, but it doesn't take much at sea to slow you down. Yesterday was mostly light and fickle wind from the north, and even though we didn't break any records, we made respectable time. I jumped into the engine room and investigated the raw water issue and luckily wasn't followed by a wall of water. There are a few usual suspects to check, and when none of them turned up anything obvious, I had to slowly start looking at things less obvious. Part of my investigation relied on the fact the engines had had a comprehensive service before we departed. So when the next few checks didn't turn up anything to explain the lack of cooling water, I had to challenge that. I took out the impeller and immediately realised the engine had not, in fact, had a full service. It was intact, with no bent or broken vanes, but it was clearly used and didn't feel new in...
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Warmer

Yesterday was pretty reasonable conditions, with the apparent wind sitting at around 10 to 12 knots all day and never really shifting from 150 degrees apparent. We sat at 4.5 to 5 knots the whole day and were going almost the right way. The forecast is looking good right through the entire model run on both the GFS and ECMWF. Today was going to be engine maintenance day, as it's forecast for the wind to die down, and I don't really like going into the engine room at sea. Not just because it's small, cramped and difficult to work in with the boat moving around on waves, but lifting up the hatch to go into the engine room, no matter how hard you try to time it, is going to be the exact moment a wave goes over the back of the boat and straight down the hatch.  With the conditions looking relatively calm, it's also a good chance to have a proper look around rather than just dealing with anything that needs attention as it comes up. I'll check the engines, belts, fluids,...

Cold

 Yesterday was pretty routine, with no surprises other than how cold it is. The wind was pretty steady, keeping at around 20 knots true, but was a little further east than I would like. After the sun went down, the moon quickly followed and it was completely black, and that's the exact time things always start changing. The wind picked up to 30 knots and it poured with rain, then the wind dropped to 5 knots and the rain stopped. Back to 30 knots 20 minutes later, and it switched to ENE, so we had to gybe at midnight. Then it rained again and the wind eased off to 15 knots and came back to the east. So we are now heading slightly north of Fiji, but going mostly the right way, which is the main thing! The long-term forecasts still show we can make a run straight through to Fiji.

Plan G

The last 24 hours have seen some positive changes, and a major one is that the wind has picked up to around 20 knots true, 15 apparent, and we are sailing with just the headsail as the angle is hovering around 150 degrees. Every now and again we have to turn a little to port as the wind gets a little more easterly and comes around to 170 degrees, which is a little deep for comfort. At around 150 degrees, the main tends to blanket the headsail, so keeping the main up would mean heading higher and sailing further than necessary, as well as being pushed further south, which I am trying to avoid. So there is little advantage. I am trying not to get pushed too far south as the wind is definitely stronger further south. The other improvement is the long-term forecast. Big high pressures are still a dominant feature, but they are sitting below 1030 hPa, and the ones that had been causing the strong wind were 1035, so with less of a pressure gradient, the wind is slightly more manageable. Ther...

On The Way!

 So after waiting weeks to get away from Raiatea as a huge area of poor weather had been blocking our planned route, we finally left yesterday morning at 6am, and not before time.   French Polynesia is a beautiful spot but prohibitively expensive. And why are the French so rude? I seldom left the boat as I had nowhere to go or do, but on one memorable occasion I was in the supermarket and the assistant swiped what appeared to be the last of my items and then just stood there staring down the aisle. I thought she was waiting for a price check or something, as she didn't acknowledge that she was finished. And then she said, “Why are you staring at me? The price isn't written on my 'ed', it's on ze machine.” So that was quite amusing. It's been very calm since we left, with less than 10 knots of apparent wind directly behind for most of the time, which actually suits me as I like to ease into a new boat. You have to identify noises and squeaks: should I adjust the ...

One More Night

We're down to about 70 miles to go, but it's looking unlikely we'll make the marina before sunset. Normally that wouldn't bother me too much, but this is Southeast Asia. Trying to pick your way into an unfamiliar harbour after dark, with fish traps, unlit obstacles and local traffic doing its own thing, is generally a poor choice. So another night at sea is looking more and more likely. There's an old sailor's saying: "All the wrecks are on the rocks." The point being that if you don't put yourself close to the rocks in the first place, you're already a long way towards avoiding becoming one of the wrecks. Another night at sea has very rarely been the thing that caused the accident. We'll make the call later today. The route into Phuket is littered with fish traps and other hazards, and I'd much rather arrive with the sun high enough to actually see what I'm trying to avoid. Last night provided another reminder of why. Many of the ...

Nearly There

We're definitely on the homeward leg now with less than 200 miles to go. If you've been looking at our track over the last 24 hours, you might be wondering what on earth we were doing. I was thinking yesterday after we left the TSS it might be worth heading back and sticking close to the unofficial shipping lanes would probably offer a bit of protection from fishing boats and the more creative navigation styles you encounter out here. It didn't. So we made a course change direct to Phuket. We ended up making several further course changes to avoid large concentrations of fishing boats and then, just as things were settling down, a cable-laying ship called us on the VHF and asked if we'd alter 20 degrees to port and give them a wide berth. Fair enough—it's easier for us to move than them—but it added another little kink to the track. The biggest surprise of the day, though, was seeing some of the worst FADs I've ever come across. Most of the Indonesian ones at le...