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Showing posts from June, 2026

Suspiciously Quiet

The weather remained committed to doing absolutely nothing useful. We carried on with around 10 knots of apparent wind directly behind us, which isn't enough to get this boat moving with any real enthusiasm. So we continued towards Singapore, burning diesel and watching the miles disappear at a rate best described as "eventually." I saw a bunch of dolphins which i was a little surprised about although they looked like they'd been surviving on an intermittent fasting diet they hadn't signed up for. Can dolphins get ricketts? Later in the morning I spotted a couple of pilot whales, and they looked equally undernourished. Perhaps that's just what marine mammals in the Java Sea are supposed to look like, but they certainly weren't the glossy brochure versions. Then - absolutely nothing. Now, you'd think nothing happening would be a good thing. Experience in the Java Sea suggests otherwise. After enough time out here, a long period of peace starts to feel l...

Flags

The Java Sea continues to keep us on our toes. Yesterday we passed dozens of FADs, but unlike the small house-style structures we'd seen earlier, these were little more than floating platforms sitting awash. Most had nothing protruding above the surface at all. A handful carried tiny flags, but they were so small they were not visible until you could already see the platform itself, making them useless as a warning. There is a raft under here! With so many of them scattered across the water, I spent most of the night on edge. There's zero margin for error when you're trying to spot an object in the dark thats awash, so I backed the engine RPM off slightly to reduce our speed. We managed to get the mainsail up yesterday for a few hours of sailing, which made a change after so much motoring. Unfortunately the wind gradually shifted. As we followed it around, our VMG steadily dropped and our course started taking us towards a field of oil and gas platforms. Gybing would have p...

Java Sea

May my enemies be cursed to sail the Java Sea for a thousand lifetimes! Yesterday the wind finally picked up enough for us to get the mainsail up, and we spent most of the day sailing. We had to sail a few degrees off our course because of the wind angle, but it was worth it to make some good miles without relying on the engines. As usual, the day involved weaving our way through the seemingly endless collection of enormous FADs, tug boats towing barges and commercial shipping that fills these waters. Interestingly, despite the number of fishing boats, the only wildlife I've seen in the last couple of days is a single bird, so I'm not sure what everyone is catching. This morning we've stopped to make water and are hoping a bit more breeze arrives when the tanks are full so we can get the mainsail back up. Sitting stationary out here feels a little uncomfortable. There's a tug and barge in the distance, and part of me is convinced they're thinking, "Let's go...

Leaving Bali

 I arrived in Lombok and we spent the night on board before getting an early start the following morning. The first job was carrying out our boarding inspection, checking all the systems and safety equipment before departure. Everything checked out well and the boat passed our inspection, ready for sea. The next challenge was organising the crew change. Indonesia doesn't make it easy. We had numerous messages from different agents, all saying they could arrange everything. Each time we agreed to proceed, the requirements seemed to change, so after a lot of back and forth it became clear the simplest option was to complete the crew change in Bali instead. We left the marina around midday and moved out to a mooring for the night before departing at first light the next morning. The passage to Bali we motored pushing against a strong current for the whole trip. In Bali we had to anchor in the middle of the channel while waiting for the paperwork to be completed. It wasn't an ideal...