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Fiji

We're passing Fiji now, with a few scattered islands just barely visible on the horizon. I missed the sunrise, which is a bit of a shame – apparently, it was quite a sight. Actually its not a shame - I was asleep. Yesterday, we covered nearly 140 nautical miles in 24hrs, and the passage continues to be steady, if a little uneventful.

The progress remains straightforward. A gentle swell is running, a subtle reminder that we're at sea. And, of course, the vast expanse of saltwater surrounding us is a constant reminder as well. There's a certain rhythm to these long passages; a steady hum of the engine, the subtle sway of the boat, and the constant vigilance, and the 4hr watches are a nice way to break things up.

Last night, we had a curious encounter. A fishing boat appeared in the distance, a small speck against the vast darkness. It was reassuring to know our AIS was functioning, silently broadcasting our position and course. It provides a sense of security. But it also reminded me of a story I heard from an old delivery skipper years ago. He was sailing through these very waters, he told me, when he spotted a similar fishing boat. He tried to hail them on the VHF as this was in the days before AIS, but got no response. Curious, he steered closer, and as he got within a few hundred yards, he saw that the boat was completely deserted. No one on deck, no lights, nothing. He said it gave him the creeps, and he quickly changed course. In the morning he saw a single bloody handprint on the back of his boat!! Arrrrgh! 

Now, I'm not suggesting that fishing boat last night was anything but a regular fishing boat, and definitely not a floating ghost ship of doom, sailed by ghosts cursed to stay at sea but it's a reminder that the ocean holds its share of mysteries.

We're making consistent progress, and we're still on track to reach Port Vila before the weekend, with a Thursday arrival still a hopeful target with 670nm to go. The quiet days like these give one time to think, reflect, and even entertain a few tall tales.


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