This second leg of the trip from NZ to Thailand is nearly done now and we can see land. But amazingly as we came down the coast last night there was not a single sign of land - no lights ashore, planes, boats, or any other indication. It was only as we got to within 10nm of Port Moresby we saw a cluster of lights.
We have been sailing with a steady breeze for most of the trip, but as we approached the final 100 nautical miles, the wind died off and we had to switch on the engine. It was a bit disappointing, as we had hoped to sail all the way to Port Moresby, but we had no choice. We wanted to arrive early morning to get cleared in and get to the marina berth and apparently we have already lost a day somewhere along the way.
I must have miscalculated because I was convinced that we would get in on Friday, but it turned out to be Thursday. I guess that's what happens when you are at sea and lose track of the days.
Something I always enjoy after a passage is the smell of landfall in the tropics. After being at sea for a while, you get used to the salty air and the occasional fishy odor. But when you approach an island with the wind behind you, you can't smell the land until you're really close. And then it hits you like a wave of perfume: the thick, rich aroma of vegetation and jungle, with a sweet hint of flowers and fruits. It's a smell that I never get tired of, and it always makes me smile.